Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Vogue 1247 - Woven top remix

Knit skirt, Citiknits
Sandals, Free Spirit

I feel like I've joined the sewist sisterhood!  Vogue 1247, Rachel Comey's tunic and short skirt, is so well-known and well-sewn. A Best Pattern of 2011 on Pattern Review, I found 58 reviews there, and I think I read them all!

Love the lines and beautiful lower bodice seaming detail, but for me the shoulder pleats and sleeves kind of overwhelm the blouse.  And  the mid-bodice horizontal dart is a problem if a stripe is used! Soft wovens and drapey fabrics are recommended - but I sew tops in quilting cottons or calico most of the time. They are cool and nice for the Florida climate - but they are not particularly drapey fabrics. So a remix!


I decided to (1) remove the shoulder pleats from the front and back shoulders, (2) ditch the dart! and (3) redraft the sleeve.
  • Pinned and flattened the pleats and mid-bodice dart in the bodice front.
  • Drew the short kimono sleeve using the bodice of the Serendipity Diane Kimono Dress, which I already knew was a good sleeve for me. Added 5/8" hem allowance to the sewing line.
  • The same shoulder and sleeve changes were made to the back piece.
  • Verified my seams were going to fit each other and the bottom bodice pieces by pin-fitting the altered tissue.
  • And traced out new back and bodice top patterns.
  • Not shown here, I also raised the front neckline mid-point by 5/8". I simply added 5/8" at the center front and cured the new cutting line.


Here are the new pieces as cut, using Robert Kaufman's Dill Blossom Stripe quilting cotton:


The bodice top was cut across the grain, and the back was cut with the grain. I made no attempt to match stripes on any of these pieces! Hard enough just to find my thread in all this!


All the seams are serged - french seams are just not a good finish for this weight fabric! Oh, well, yes, serging is lots faster :-)


Fun top! I sewed a size 12 and think the fit is great. 
It is easy to slip on and off, and I love the way the sleeves turned out.

Pants, Motto
Zoris, CVS

And the good bones of the blouse are intact. This blouse is just the right length for pants... 
 I like the way my jeans pockets peek out under the hem.



I am so very easy to please :-) Ciao! Coco

16 comments:

  1. Oh this is a really pretty version! I hink your changes make it lay better than mine did. I kep wanting to do another- I think I'll copy your ideas and go for it.

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    1. Oh yes do! I always love your fabrics and photo shoots. Will the dachshunds help?

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  2. This looks super, and I like how you can wear it with a long skirt, or jeans. Like prttynpnk, I also will be 'borrowing' your design changes for mine...

    ✿ Judy
    made by J

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    1. Thanks, Judy! I feel lucky it worked out so well - this is my muslin (which is why the stripes don't match up - although in the end I like it better that way). And it really does make a neat top.

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  3. Coco I have this pattern too. I resisted because I know I am going to have to do some major tweaking too. I like how you altered the sleeves to suit your body shape.

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    1. Hi Valerie! and thank you. More and more I find myself thinking of patterns in terms of their elements and realize I can move things around. There are no sewing pattern police! I think joining the sewist blog and PR world really changed my world and gave me more confidence. Grateful and having fun.

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  4. Very pretty! I have this pattern and have not made it yet...I bought it for the skirt but changes make me really want the top too! Nice job!

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    1. Thanks so much, Myra. I love the skirt too..but have a little (biggish) skin disorder that just won't let me wear any kind of hardware, not even a snap. Forget a zipper! Have been thinking about how to get those super neat pockets onto an elastic-waist skirt or dress skirt :-)

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  5. You made the perfect pattern alterations to get this pattern to fit you!

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    1. Thank you, Carolyn! It was kind of fun - I'm so boney but really wanted to use the pattern. Have you made this one too? I think maybe it would be totally cute in the looser version done in a marigold fleece for a winter overshirt with a long-sleeve t-shirt underneath. :-) Love sewing...

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  6. Another winner Coco! Love how you used the stripes. I agree with Carolyn that the alterations are perfect, and BTW you look tres chic with your hair pulled back.

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    1. Terri, thank you! Mixing it up with the stripes made it really fun. And for the comment on hair also - I'm never sure when I make a change and this was a big one!

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  7. Coco... I just discovered your blog via Pattern Review... I also live in South Florida, some 45 miles north of you, so I find your comments and choices reflect my preferences and sewing requirements.

    I really like this pattern, which I just bought. Your specific alterations may not suit me, but there's still a gold mine of information about the pattern I can use. I think I'll make the top in a dark blue and taupe silk geometric print that's been in my stash for awhile, to pair with a denim-knit bottom, probably making a cropped pant from one of Marcie's patterns that I think would look good with it.

    Anyway, I'll be stopping by often to see what you have on the sewing table.

    Marilee

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    1. Hi Marilee! So glad you found my blog, love having neighbors. Your fabric sounds so so pretty, silk will drape beautifully in this pattern. Hope you share pics on PR!

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  8. i LOVE the way you played with the stripes to get such an original design.

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    1. Oh thank you so much! And I love your vintage/retro dresses! Especially the Advance patterns. I read so much of your blog, but entries end in 2011. Are you only on Sew Retro now? Love your writing.

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I love it that you came by...and thank you for your comments! Coco